How to Build a Kevlar Canoe - Solo

“Drywall compound application"

All I did yesterday was touch up with a #100 disk and vacuumed. I noted that the station areas are a little deeply sanded relative to between, so will need more filling. The stern is still a little high, but maybe because it’s low on the bow side of the station. I used almost a full (6 gal) pail of general purpose, premixed drywall compound (spread fairly thick – 1/8-1/4 inch?).

I went between each station, one at a time, starting at the top and going down (I then finished longitudinally with the tool), working bow to stern on the port side, then stern to bow on the starboard side.

Took a little over an hour, and dry to the (surface) touch (at the starting point) when finished. It's about 90 F at this time, so not too surprising.


For those that know a mortar board has nothing to do with graduation ceremonies, this is a piece of cake. For me (long time, incorrigible, mudding moron), it don't look pretty!


Tried sanding after 20 hrs – not quite dry yet. Sanded the next day – took off the high spots with a Surform® and finished up with my magic vacuum sander.   A tip is to work the sanding platform at a 45° angle when possible, then follow-up longitudinally.

½ hour for the Surform® and about an hour for the rest. Another tip – same as drywall, use a bright light to cast shadows so you can see what to work on.   About a 1/2 hour left to finish sanding, then I'll fill the low spots.

After sanding, applied a finish coat (thinned to runny mud). Took about 2 hrs; when I finished the place I started on was dry. Used about 3 qts of compound to cover (thinly).




Finally back from business trip. One thing I forgot was to use a long sanding platform (one that spans at least 1½ stations). It allows you to more easily find the high/low spots. I also put down a grid (with a pencil) to see where the problems were. Your canoe is only going to be as good as the form, so I spent a LOT of time getting it right.


After I finished sanding (finally!), I painted the 1" above the gunwales and about the same for the bow/stern with a latex drywall primer. This should allow the double-backed tape (for the shrink wrap) to stick better. Then I started wondering if I should prime the whole thing? I think I'll wait to see how the shrink wrap works; I'll start that tomorrow.

I'm going to try the layup without the wax, since I'm using the shrink wrap. I may have to wax the gunwale to get the double back tape to stick - we'll see.

So far, I've got about 45 m-hrs into it.


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