Wee Lassie II Canoe

Strongback & cedar strips

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I used Mac's Wee Lassie II profile data and put them into a spreadsheet.  I then imported the data into a CAD program and printed them out.  All forms were laid out on 1/2" CDX plywood using the "pinprick" method.  I rough cut them with a saber saw, then finished them on a bandsaw.

 

The strongback is constructed of a 14' 2x8 deck-screwed to a 14' 2x6 a T and mounted as shown.  The top 2x8 must be level and true (or your canoe won't be).  I used shims and deckscrews between the "T" to take out any twist, sag or bow.  Each form is mounted to the top 2x8 with a 1x2 block (deckscrews again).  The  bow and stern profile forms are screwed to the last bow and stern forms.  All forms have a strip of masking tape applied so the glue does not stick to the forms. 

Router Bits - Bead and Flute BitsThe strips are cut from 2-14' 1x8 and 1-14' 1x6 clear cedar.  I used a  DeWalt (from a DW9158 combo pak) 16 tooth circle saw blade (1/16 kerf) in my 12" table saw.  It is barely high enough for the 3/4" board on this saw.  Each strip edge is cove on one side and bead on the other so they nestle together with no gaps.  A router table was used to accomplish this.  The bits were Woodcraft bead and flute set (# 129686) purchased from www.shop.com for about $40.  Note that two strips do not have a cove (the sheerline strips).

 

Here's the setup I used for the router.  Note the use of fingerboards.  This is imperative if you want a consistent cut (and you do).  The bead side is cut first so you don't crush the cove edges.  The bits are 1/4" - I cut the strips maybe 1/32" oversize.  If you do this,  make sure all strips are laid down with the extra 1/32" facing up.  This gives you a little more room for sanding after they are all laid up.

 

The stern and bow have an inner stem that is laid up now.  I used 1/16" strips of pine to do this.  Each strip has a layer of glue laid down between them.  After all strips are assembled, clamp them down to the form.  I used a water-resistant glue (Titebond) even though Mac recommend a regular white glue (no particular reason for the Titebond).

 

 

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