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I was unable to find (reliably) Sitka spruce for the paddle shaft. I did find a nice piece of Alder, however. Since it's a little more dense than spruce, I hollowed out the center with a router (1/2" round). If you do this, MAKE SURE you don't go past the 24" on the ends - you'll need that for the blade (wonder why I emphasize this?).
The next steps are per the book. Cut out the blade sections on the bandsaw. There are no dimensions for the shape, so I kind of winged it. I assumed the blade "bottomed out" at 2/3 of the 24". It's not perfectly symmetrical, a little more cupped at the end. I used pine for the adjacent-to-shaft strips for contrast, then cedar for the rest. I scared myself gluing it up, as it seemed it was setting up way too fast (90 deg F). I only put on the first two blade strips as a result. Turns out it was just the colloidal silica behaving a little differently with this hardener (West 206 hardener with 105 epoxy, vs. 207 hardener). I clamped up the rest two hours later (definitely set!).
I then started sanding - a lot! I trimmed one blade to the outline that looked pretty good (used the book as a template), turned it over and made a template out of cardboard for the other end. After trimming to shape, I then started shaping the blade. I cleaned up the power face (50 grit belt sander and random orbital sander), trying to match both ends (approximately), then made a mark all the way around the edge for 1/4" thick. I then worked on the back, tapering the blade from the 1/4" mark to the centerline of the back of the blade.
Before shaping After shaping "Finished" product.
I also added the owl symbol to each power face, similar what was done on the bulkhead. Only finish is two coats of epoxy (well sanded between coats).
What would I do differently?
Mark the areas for the "hollowing out" before routing.
I really like the micro pumps - I probably miscounted the 5:1 ratio and actually used a 3:1. Hopefully that will not affect the strength of the joint.